Cederberg Hike - May 2005

While driving home from work on Friday, I had an great feeling of contentment. I commute between Somerset West and Stellenbosch and to drive through the winelands every day is truly a treat – a brilliant way to ease in and out of the working day. The reason this Friday was even better than most? Well it was a warm, still, autumn afternoon, it was the start of a long weekend, and at dawn tomorrow I would be heading out to the Cederberg for a 3 day hike.

Me, maria and a whole lot of rock

The Cederberg is known for its stark landscapes, beautiful colours and weird rock formations. Once you exceed the day-hikers route, there are few people and little water. This was my first visit to the area and initially I was glad to have two experienced hikers with me. But that thought lasted only as long as the 3 hour drive to our starting point. As I was marched up what is known as “The Cracks” sandwiched between Maria – endurance addict whose last hike was a 6 day solo affair (this girl knows how to take care of herself!) and Shawn, whose previous expedition was to kayak from Tanzania to South Africa – I was beginning to have serious doubts! I tried to distract myself from these thoughts by filling my mind rather with imaginings of what the passing rock shapes resembled - as one might do with clouds. It seems however that my hiking buddies were way ahead of me on this one too. When I exclaimed “Rhino”, Maria said she thought it looked more like a baboon, with wine goblet in hand and 2 offspring seated beside him, looking out over his territory… beaten at my own game!


Tea break - with arch in the distance

For those who know the Cederberg, our route took us from Sandrif to the Wolfberg Arch, across Martian lands (my own title) and to Welbedacht cave where we were to spend our first night. We’d walked most of the day and it was already dusk when we abandoned our attempt to find a less well-known cave (clearly) and headed on for the more popular (and easy-to-find) Welbedacht. Unfortunately 15 unwelcoming faces greeted us when we crashed through some bushes and landed in their circle. It seems we had disturbed a men’s wilderness retreat (for the record they had all come up the easy route). We were politely told that it might be a bit awkward if we stayed. We agreed and left them to find themselves while we found ourselves a place to sleep. A small overhang across the way proved adequate. Maria and I did, well nothing, while Shawn with his headlamp went off to find us water to cook our supper. He came back with some very brown and gritty bottles, but its amazing how good food on a hike tastes and how things like chewing your last bit of coffee don’t really seem to bother you.

Next morning we tackled Tafelberg. This is the second highest of the Cederberg mountains and so worth the climb! About 2 thirds of the way up we bumped into 2 rock climbers who pointed out a 5-star cave just a little further, called Spout Cave. If Tafelberg was the tea pot, the cave looks like its spout. They warned us of what they called ‘wamboozles’ – large rat-like creatures that run across your sleeping bag at night – and they were on their way again. We considered wamboozles only a small price to pay when we saw what would be home for the night. An icy wind was blowing, but the cave had even been neatly packed with rocks along one side, forming a protective wall. No wonder the wamboozles liked it here.

Watch your step

We downed our packs, and carried on up the mountain. The feeling of having walked all that way, to be standing on top of this mountain was awesome. What made the afternoon even better was that all below us was a misty, chilly wind, but up on our flat-topped mountain the sun was shining and we were surprisingly sheltered from the wind swirling below.

Now I’ve mentioned that Maria knows how to take care of herself… When Shawn and I sat down to our provitas, cheese and tuna, Maria whipped out baby tomatoes, a cucumber, rice, lentils, chips and even olives! As an amateur hiker, I was impressed, but Shawn was totally speechless. He insisted on this photo to prove that he had eaten a provita, with all of the above, on the top of Tafelberg…

Tafelberg cuisine

Lunch and warm sun induced indolence and we each went off to ‘explore’. But ‘maagies vol, oogies toe’. Two hours later I woke up, only to find the others elsewhere and snoozing in the afternoon sun. I’m tempted to say that this was the high point of the hike (forgive the intended pun), but it was really only so when put together with the rest of it. To be so far away from the city and people, relaxing on a mountain in the sun, pleasantly weary from walking…bliss.

On this our second evening, we sat and watched the sun sink somewhere below us. Shawn cooked up another feast and we settled in early. The wamboozles didn't disappoint, but even their scratching didn't bother these contented hikers.

On descending the mountain the following morning we lost the route and trail blazed through some prickly fynbos. Luckily for us, a fire had passed through recently so it was passable, but in a few years time the vegetation would be dense and beautiful, with tiny proteas already shooting. The vegetation wasn’t as spectacular as in other parts of the Cape, but the rocks and their formations held their own intrigue. The rest of the hike was along a jeep track and pretty easy going. From our cave to the starting point was in the end a quick 3 hour trot. And then we were suddenly back on wheels and tar heading towards the city, and I already dreaming of my next chance to come back. Space is addictive and the Cederberg has plenty.

The team: Shawn, Maria & myself